▶What are the five mother sauces and how do I make each?
The five mother sauces are béchamel (roux plus milk), velouté (roux plus light stock), espagnole (roux plus brown stock plus tomato), hollandaise (egg yolks plus clarified butter plus lemon juice), and tomato (tomato puree plus stock plus aromatics). Each begins with either a roux base (three first sauces) or an emulsion base (hollandaise), and each is the parent of dozens of daughter sauces: béchamel becomes mornay (add cheese), velouté becomes suprême (add cream), espagnole becomes sauce Robert (add mustard and cornichons), and hollandaise becomes béarnaise (add tarragon reduction). The five represent all the fundamental techniques in sauce making: roux thickening, reduction, emulsification, and finishing.
▶How long should I simmer stock and how do I know when it is ready?
Beef or veal stock simmers for 12 to 24 hours at a bare simmer (small bubbles rising slowly, not a rolling boil). Chicken stock takes 6 to 8 hours. Fish stock takes only 30 to 45 minutes because fish bones are delicate and break down fast, and long cooking turns the stock bitter and cloudy. A ready stock is rich in color (golden or amber), has a silky body (caused by dissolved gelatin), and tastes of bone and aromatics with no raw flavors. Taste it: raw stock tastes thin and flat, ready stock tastes deep and round. Use a thermometer to monitor: a slow simmer is 180 to 190 degrees Fahrenheit, far below boiling (212 degrees), which breaks down proteins and creates a cloudy stock.
▶What is a raft and how do I make a clear consommé?
A raft is a solid mat of egg white and ground meat that floats on top of stock and traps impurities, clarifying the broth beneath. To make consommé, heat clear stock to 160 degrees Fahrenheit, then stir in a mixture of ground raw meat, egg white, mirepoix, and tomato (the sachet). The mixture coagulates and rises as a raft; maintain a bare simmer and never stir or break the raft or impurities will sink and muddy the consommé. After 45 to 60 minutes, carefully ladle clear liquid from beneath the raft through cheesecloth into a clean pot. The result is a crystal-clear, deeply flavored broth that is the foundation of consommé soups and aspics.
▶How do I make a roux and what is the difference between blond, brown, and dark?
A roux is equal parts fat (butter) and flour cooked together. Melt the butter over medium heat, add flour, and stir constantly. Blond roux cooks for one to two minutes until it smells like toast and turns pale gold: used in béchamel and velouté. Brown roux cooks for five to ten minutes, turns chocolate brown, and smells nutty: used in espagnole. Dark roux cooks for 15 to 20 minutes, is nearly black, and smells deep and almost bitter: used in some gumbos and stews. A darker roux has less thickening power (because more starch is broken down), but deeper flavor. Once the roux reaches color, add stock slowly while whisking to prevent lumps. Cook gently for 20 to 30 minutes to cook out the raw flour taste.
▶How do I make hollandaise and how do I rescue a broken one?
Whisk egg yolks and a splash of lemon juice in a bowl over a bain marie (not touching the water) until the mixture becomes pale and foamy, about two minutes. Slowly add warm clarified butter while whisking constantly, about one tablespoon every 30 seconds. As the emulsion tightens, you can add butter faster. The result is silky, rich, and glossy. If the hollandaise breaks (separates), it looks grainy and separated. Rescue it by starting a fresh yolk in a clean bowl, then slowly whisking the broken sauce into it: the fresh yolk will re-emulsify the fat. Common breaks: adding butter too fast, using cold butter, or overheating the yolks (they scramble at 160 degrees Fahrenheit).
▶What is the difference between a fond, jus, and a demi-glace?
A fond is the brown bits stuck to the pan after searing meat or vegetables: deglaze with stock or wine and scrape to release them. A jus is a lightly thickened pan sauce made from the fond and stock, finished with butter for richness: low-starch, clean, modern. A demi-glace is a classic sauce made from espagnole (roux-thickened brown stock plus tomato) reduced by half and skimmed of fat, then finished with more espagnole to thicken again: rich, dark, old-school French. A jus tastes cleaner and lighter; a demi-glace is richer and more full-bodied. Most modern kitchens prefer jus; classical French kitchens use both depending on the dish.
▶How do I store stock and sauces and how long do they keep?
Cool stock in an ice bath before refrigerating (never put hot stock directly in the fridge). Store in a shallow container so it cools quickly. Stock keeps four to five days refrigerated, but a film of fat on top acts as a seal and extends the life to a week. Freeze stock in ice-cube trays for portioning, then transfer to freezer bags: frozen stock keeps three to six months. Sauces made from stock keep three to four days refrigerated; sauces with cream or emulsion (hollandaise, béarnaise) keep only one day because they separate. Never refreeze thawed stock. Label everything with the date to prevent using old stock by accident.